Climbing’s surge in popularity is undeniable, with new gyms opening rapidly and crag parking lots packed with adventure seekers. The sport’s unique blend of physical challenge and social engagement makes it incredibly appealing.
As climbers get hooked, the drive for improvement follows quickly. It’s only a matter of time before enthusiastic beginners come across the hangboard – a compact yet powerful tool designed to build finger strength. With consistent use, proper technique, and a structured training plan, any of the hangboards on this list can help break through plateaus and elevate climbing performance.
For our review of the best hangboards, we rigorously tested more than 10 models across multiple seasons. Our team put these boards through their paces at the gym, at home, and even at outdoor crags. Experienced climbers and training specialists led this in-depth evaluation. No matter where you are in your climbing journey, this guide will help you choose the right hangboard. Let’s explore with National Park Shops!
Contents
- Tension Climbing Grindstone ($59.99 on Amazon)
- Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center ($159.95 on Amazon)
- So iLL Meagan Martin Training Tiles ($119 on Amazon)
- Metolious Wood Grips Deluxe II ($100.30 on Amazon)
- Metolius Simulator 3D Training Board ($93.99 on Amazon)
- Beastmaker 1000 ($109 on Amazon)
- How We Tested
- Frequently Asked Questions
Tension Climbing Grindstone ($59.99 on Amazon)
Key Features
- Material: Wood
- Dimensions: 23″ x 7″ x 3″
Why It’s a Standout
The Tension Climbing Grindstone earns our top pick as the best overall hangboard. Despite its unassuming design, this board delivers a powerhouse of features tailored for effective finger strength training. The edges are exceptionally comfortable, making it easy to drop fingers and simulate pocket climbing when needed. The full-length jug at the top mimics a pull-up bar, offering a natural grip for various exercises. One of its standout features is the well-thought-out hold layout, which ensures your hands remain at a consistent width across all edge sizes.
Additionally, the clearly labeled edge depths make it easy to track progress and seamlessly transition between different boards, including those commonly found in climbing gyms. With edge sizes ranging from 30mm to 10mm in precise 5mm increments, this board supports both warm-ups and intense training sessions. For those looking for an extra challenge, the 8mm edge provides a serious test of finger strength. While the largest edge size maxes out at 30mm, beginner climbers may find this limiting.
Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center ($159.95 on Amazon)
Key Features
- Material: Thermoplastic Elastomer(TPE)
- Dimensions: 20″L x 16″W
- Item Weight: 16 ounces
Why It’s a Standout
If you’re looking for a hangboard that offers unlimited training possibilities, the Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center is hard to surpass. True to its name, this board functions as a full-fledged training system, providing a vast array of holds to target nearly any weakness. One of its standout features is the set of three horizontal pinch grips, which require full thumb engagement, unlike vertical pinches, where compression can sometimes compensate for technique. Additionally, the board’s variable edge sizes allow for progressive training, gradually working down to smaller holds. Each edge is equipped with index bumps, ensuring precise and repeatable finger placement with every session. Through careful adjustments, we identified a total of 16 distinct edge sizes, offering nearly endless training potential.
While the board’s versatility is impressive, the majority of structured hangboard training revolves around four-finger edges. Pockets and specialized holds are excellent for route-specific conditioning, but they can often be trained more effectively on a climbing wall. For those prioritizing maximum variety, the Training Center is undoubtedly a top-tier choice.
So iLL Meagan Martin Training Tiles ($119 on Amazon)
Key Features
- Material: Urethane
- Dimensions: 14 x 6 x 7 inches
- Item Weight: 5.8 Pounds
Why It’s a Standout
The So iLL Meagan Martin Training Tiles stand out as an excellent choice for beginner climbers looking to incorporate hangboard training into their routine. If you’ve been climbing casually for about a year and are ready to start structured training, this board is a fantastic entry point. Designed with comfort in mind, it features exceptionally ergonomic edges that make the learning process smooth and enjoyable. The variety of larger holds simplifies warming up and allows for gradual progression in grip strength. Additionally, the spacious pockets provide a solid introduction to pocket training, while the slopers create an ideal surface for open-hand grip development.
While the edges are impressively comfortable, the overall texture of the board leans toward the rough side. This added friction can be beneficial for beginners adjusting to hangboarding, though those who prefer a smoother feel can easily refine the surface with a bit of sandpaper. If you’re in search of a beginner-friendly hangboard with generous hold options, the Training Tiles will serve you well for an extended period. Entry-level training boards of this quality are rare, making this an exciting addition to the market.
Metolious Wood Grips Deluxe II ($100.30 on Amazon)
Key Features
- Material: Wood
- Dimensions: Deluxe 28.25″ x 6.9″ (718 mm x 175 mm)
- Item Weight: 5.6 Pounds
- Skill Level: Intermediate
Why It’s a Standout
The Metolius Wood Grips Deluxe II is a strong competitor in the hangboard market, providing a well-rounded selection of edges, pockets, and slopers. It also includes comfortable open-hand jugs and a well-structured progression between edge sizes, making it a great option for climbers looking to build finger strength methodically.
Each row of edges and pockets is consistently sized, featuring a well-defined incut that demands a bit more skin engagement compared to the smoother, more radiused edges found on Tension and Beastmaker boards. This makes it particularly effective for repeater protocols, where endurance and sustained grip are key.
While the board’s width may feel slightly narrow for some users, it remains a generally comfortable and reliable training tool. The edges, though more incut, strike a balance between being skin-friendly and requiring extra effort to hold compared to plastic hangboards, yet they are less demanding than those on the Tension Board. With edge sizes ranging from 31mm to 19mm, this board is well-suited for max weighted hangs and allows for a smooth progression between hold sizes.
Metolius Simulator 3D Training Board ($93.99 on Amazon)
Key Features
- Material: Plastic
- Dimensions: 28″L x 8.75″W x 28″H
- Item Weight: 5 Grams
Why It’s a Standout
Having undergone multiple refinements over the years, the Metolius Simulator 3D Training Board remains a top choice for its versatility, affordability, and effectiveness.
One of its standout qualities is the extensive range of hold options. With numerous sizes and pocket depths to choose from, beginners may find it overwhelming to decide where to start. Fortunately, the board includes a training guide to help users build an effective routine from day one.
Thanks to its varied selection of holds, from shallow to deep, climbers of all skill levels can benefit from a productive workout. However, elite athletes seeking extreme slopers or tiny edges, features found on the Beastmaker 2000, might find this board lacking. For most users, though, it serves as a well-rounded training tool.
The fine-textured polyester resin is designed to be gentle on the skin, but it can feel more abrasive compared to wooden hangboards. Additionally, the slight arch in the board’s shape is engineered to align with natural body mechanics, reducing strain and lowering the risk of injury.
With a well-thought-out design and proven effectiveness, the Simulator 3D has stood the test of time as a reliable training board for climbers.
Beastmaker 1000 ($109 on Amazon)
Key Features
- Material: Wood
- Dimensions: 22.83″L x 2.28″W x 5.91″H
- Item Weight: 1.74 Kilograms
Why It’s a Standout
The Beastmaker 1000 is a classic among training boards, earning its reputation as a top-tier choice for climbers at all skill levels. Crafted from Tulipwood, it boasts a variety of hold options, including 45-degree slopers, multiple deep pockets, and 20mm and 10mm edges. The finely sanded, rounded design makes the edges slightly smaller than their listed size but ensures exceptional comfort. If you’ve spent time training in a commercial gym, chances are you’ve gripped the holds of this board before. It’s a favorite among many climbers.
This board excels in training for pockets, slopers, and max-weight protocols, particularly those centered around the 20mm edge. However, if you’re looking for a board with ultra-small edges for a minimal edge protocol, this may not be the best fit. With only 20mm and 10mm options available, it lacks the intermediate sizes and micro edges found on the Tension MKII.
Throughout testing, the warm-up jugs on this board proved to be the most comfortable of any hangboard on this list. Its width is generally sufficient for most climbers, though those with broader shoulders might feel slightly constrained. Additionally, the deep pockets make it an excellent choice for rehabbing minor finger or tendon injuries, adding to its overall appeal as a reliable training tool.
How We Tested
With ten years of experience in hangboard testing and training, our team has evaluated a wide range of options, from timeless favorites to cutting-edge innovations and emerging designs. Each board was personally purchased and rigorously tested by our team, with input from physical therapists, professional climbers, and elite athletes. We analyzed the variety of holds, assessed texture and ergonomics for comfort, examined overall versatility, and even factored in installation ease.
Each model was rated based on four key performance criteria:
- Variety of Holds – 40% of the total score
- Comfort – 30% weighting
- Versatility – 15% weighting
- Ease of Installation – 15% weighting
Frequently Asked Questions
Should beginners hangboard?
Hangboard training puts significant strain on joints, tendons, and pulleys, making injury prevention crucial, especially for beginners. There is an ongoing debate about whether young, developing climbers should even use a hangboard.
Regardless of experience, proper technique is key. Keep shoulders engaged, elbows slightly bent, and your back straight, especially when adding weight.
For beginners, safety should be the priority. Tendons take longer to strengthen than muscles, so progress gradually to avoid injury. Stronger fingers will come with time.
Can I hangboard every day?
No, daily hangboard training isn’t recommended. It places significant stress on the tendons and connective tissues in your fingers, hands, and forearms. These tissues need adequate rest between sessions to prevent injury and promote proper recovery.
How do you train to climb without climbing?
Beginner climbers should prioritize climbing for progress, but if access to gyms or crags is limited, a hangboard can be a useful training tool.
Regular hangboard sessions help strengthen fingers for pulling and gripping, eventually improving the ability to hold smaller grips found in harder climbs.
Complementing this with core exercises, stretching, and cardio builds a strong foundation for overall climbing performance. Even without regular climbing access, targeted training keeps you progressing and ready to return stronger.
